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Has anyone had a problem with double tap. Today I had a double tap then with my finger off the trigger a triple tap. My completion gun is a G35.
 

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A non intentional triple tap with no trigger contact sounds very dangerous. I'm guessing you have lots of aftermarket parts on this competition gun?
 

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Has anyone had a problem with double tap. Today I had a double tap then with my finger off the trigger a triple tap. My completion gun is a G35.
It happens a lot when people monkey with Glock triggers. Changing only the connector to a 3.5, without changing springs, creates this phenomena frequently
 

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An unwanted triple tap can be dangerous, have you replaced the stock trigger?
 

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Has anyone had a problem with double tap. Today I had a double tap then with my finger off the trigger a triple tap. My completion gun is a G35.
sounds like too many after market parts. the sear is not making contact with the firing pin (catch) so I would look at the connector angle
 

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Typically a double tap happens when the firing pin lug makes contact with the trigger bar during the cycle/reset but not enough engagement to hold. The firing pin slips off and fires the next round before the trigger is released far enough to allow the firing pin safety to re-engage.

Completely releasing the trigger should stop the malfunction because the safeties will engage and halt the firing process.

If your gun fired while your finger was completely off the trigger then you have an extremely dangerous situation than has got to be addressed. It means your safeties, specifically the trigger and firing pin safeties, are malfunctioning.


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Has anyone had a problem with double tap. Today I had a double tap then with my finger off the trigger a triple tap. My completion gun is a G35.
I strongly suspect that I know what's causing your problem. I'll preface my remarks with the observation that IF you had already fooled around with the striker lug and/or the trigger bar 'kick plate' on that G-35 then you really wouldn't need to post this question online because ... ... you'd already know where you'd gone wrong and 'screwed the pooch', so to speak. So a damaged trigger bar and/or striker lug is, most likely, NOT involved in the current problem you're experiencing.

Instead, it's far more probable that yours is a misaligned connector problem. Specifically, the lower 'L' angle on whatever connector you're using is too shallow (or too far to the left when viewed from the rear of the frame), and needs to be loosened up. You're going to have to remove the 'T.H.U.' (Trigger Housing Unit) from the frame, and bend the detached connector outward (to the right when viewed from the rear) until it almost, but not quite, touches the inside edge of the trigger bar's 'bird's head' tailpiece. Once the proper mechanical relationship is established between these two (actually) mating edges the tendency for your G-35 to fire sporadically should completely disappear.

Do NOT 'go crazy'; do not bend that connector outward by too much. The correct final adjustment is going to be very slight. If your trigger starts to drag then you went too far – OK. As a final word-of-caution: Do NOT ever 'break' (or round) one of the square edges on a Glock's trigger bar, or striker lug. You'll get the same problem you have now, only worse!

IMPORTANT NOTE: When properly adjusted there should be 'the thickness of an ordinary business card' between the outside of the 'T.H.U.' and the inner face of the connector – OK.

Typically a double tap happens when the firing pin lug makes contact with the trigger bar during the cycle/reset but not enough engagement to hold. The firing pin slips off and fires the next round before the trigger is released far enough to allow the firing pin safety to re-engage.

Completely releasing the trigger should stop the malfunction because the safeties will engage and halt the firing process.

If your gun fired while your finger was completely off the trigger then you have an extremely dangerous situation than has got to be addressed. It means your safeties, specifically the trigger and firing pin safeties, are malfunctioning.
And now, boys 'n girls, a few words from our resident sock puppet who is NOT an 'advanced' or 'certified' anything other than a really great bullhooey artist. Neither can anyone, here, follow this self-described genius on Twitter because the link he's posted is a dead-blind URL address. (Socky, must think other people are really stupid — huh!) Well ... ... Mr. phony baloney sock puppet, here's some news for ya:


THE REAL MR. GLOCKGUIDE

Hey, a great 'certified' expert like you should know that Glock pistols do NOT have firing pins. The Glock design (as an 'Advanced Armorer' like you would be well aware) employs a striker, instead. The striker lug/trigger bar 'kick plate' slippage you describe is rare; and always the result of a seriously 'fudged' (or over-polished) set of components – In which the linear square edges have been 'broken'. Neither will 'completely releasing the trigger' cure this problem. I mean really, Mr. sock puppet, if you don't stop with your phony expert advice routines then you just might end up causing someone to be seriously injured.

You wouldn't really care, though, would you! You'd rather continue playing this high risk, egomaniacal 'expert' game of yours. (As long as the risk is to others, and not to you, yourself, everything's cool — right!) :rolleyes:
 

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I’m sorry you just publicly embarrassed yourself but with a quick search for a Glock parts diagram you can learn the correct names to avoid a similar mistake in the future. I personally don’t mind when people don’t know the actual part names but your ignorance shouldn’t be the foundation for challenging my certifications.

While you’re at it, check out the Glock Armorer’s Slide Cover Plate. It’s for inspecting the amount of engagement between the firing pin lug and rear of the crucifix on the trigger bar. If there is less than 2/3rds of the trigger bar covered there is a risk of the firing pin slipping off the trigger bar. The part only exists for the purpose of checking this engagement because if it’s out of speck it can result in double fires.



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I’m sorry you just publicly embarrassed yourself but with a quick search for a Glock parts diagram you can learn the correct names to avoid a similar mistake in the future. I personally don’t mind when people don’t know the actual part names but your ignorance shouldn’t be the foundation for challenging my certifications.

While you’re at it, check out the Glock Armorer’s Slide Cover Plate. It’s for inspecting the amount of engagement between the firing pin lug and rear of the crucifix on the trigger bar. If there is less than 2/3rds of the trigger bar covered there is a risk of the firing pin slipping off the trigger bar. The part only exists for the purpose of checking this engagement because if it’s out of speck it can result in double fires.
:rolleyes: Yuppers! You've just reaffirmed my utter contempt for all of the Glock pistol 'techno-crap' that gets posted on the internet–Oftentimes by those who should, but obviously don't care enough to, know better.

People and companies, some of whom I do regular business with, publish all sorts of disinformation without giving any of it a second thought. One of the very first things I learned about Glock factory — FACTORY — literature is that English is NOT the native tongue of the people who write the Glock manuals.

The other thing that always annoys me about Glock factory literature is that the owner's manual wording can (and does) change about as often as Glock pistols do; and, just like the Glock factory's numerous unannounced 'mystery upgrades', none of these changes are ever announced; they just suddenly appear! Then there's the homemade YouTube videos. (OMG!) There are so many mistakes in YouTube Glock videos that I simply don’t watch any of them, anymore. YouTube is so full of firearm ‘techno-crap’ that no serious gunsmith or gunsmithing student should ever dare to take any of it, and especially not any of the Glock stuff, solely at face value.

One of my closest acquaintances just retired from a 50 year career as one of our area's leading gunsmiths. (You should see the beautiful custom rifles he builds!) He spent about 15 years of his career as a Glock armorer for the Philadelphia Police Department; and he describes his several trips to the Glock factory for professionally required armorer's training as, 'an almost complete waste of time'. (His words, not mine!)

Neither do he nor I understand how anyone can spend no more than one to three days (tops!) at the factory in Smyrna, and return home with a piece of paper that passes the bearer off as a 'factory armorer'. Again, as my friend put it: 'All I know is that I would not allow more than 90% of the people I was in those classes with to work on one of my own Glocks.' Me? I really have to agree! In accord with my own experiences with so-called 'Glock Factory Armorers', neither would I! I, also, work on my own Glocks, too; and if I need a lathe, or an end mill for something then I take a run over to a machine shop in town.

So, even if you were a factory-trained armorer – which I know you're not – I'd still be far less than impressed with all of the technical nonsense that you post around here. (Neither have I forgotten the more than half dozen different names that you used to post under.) Really, nobody should ever rely solely on internet gun forums to provide correct information. Sometimes the data I'll see is correct; but far too often it's not. The best advice I could give anyone who wants to learn about guns on the internet is to do a lot of reading, and compare a lot of different sources.

Three things stand out in your most recent cockamamie reply:

(1) If you truly understood what the OP is complaining about then you would have told him exactly the same thing that I did, and avoided the confused gobbledegook that you finally came up with, and posted. (I could tell by your answer that you don't really understand the OP's problem!)

(2) You obviously don't understand when, or when not to use an orange-colored armorer's slide plate; but, nevertheless, an armorer's end plate would, more than likely, be of no real help with this problem. As I've already said: As long as the OP hasn't screwed around with the trigger bar/striker lug configuration; and/or as long as he hasn't installed a connector with a 'TCT' stop on it then THE OP DOES NOT NEED TO USE AN ARMORER'S SLIDE PLATE in order to correct his Glock's sporadic firing problem. All you're doing, now, is 'mudding the waters' in an attempt to make yourself look good. (You're being sooo ... transparent, too!) ;)

(3) Neither do you, yourself, know the difference between a firing pin, and a striker. Not to worry, though; some of the biggest names in the firearms business apparently don't know, either. Here's some well detailed Glock literature that might bring you, and certain others up to speed:

From Wikipedia: Glock Pistols For Dummies (See 'Design Details' > 'Features')
Correct Pistol Nomenclature For Internet Gun Forum Experts
How A Glock Really Works

You say you've got certifications, ... OK, so let's see the certificates – Especially the wallet cards which are particularly difficult to fake! Go ahead and block out your name; but leave the dates and other numbers intact. All ya got'a do is to simply post a few cell phone photos of your certificates. (Not some phony baloney paper certificates that you've pulled off the internet – Understand!)

I'm willing to do the same thing, too. No names, just photos of the, preferably, wallet cards that are complete with dates and other reference numbers. (I know I'm taking something of a risk here, Mr. Glock Expert, because almost anything, nowadays, can be photoshopped; but I'm curious to see what you come up with.)

Do this, and DO IT HONESTLY; and, even if you still don't know what you're talking about, I'll overlook your ignorance and publicly apologize for ever having doubted you; (but we, both, know that's never going to happen; now, don't we!) :D
 
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