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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello folks,

Ever since I purchased my G30SF (Gen 3), it’s had this issue: it shoots about 2-3” high at 7yds, 5-6" high at 15yds, and worse as you step back to 25yds and beyond. It shoots high the same amount with both the factory barrel and a Lone Wolf barrel. I’m lining the sights up exactly as I have my other Glocks: The top of the front sight aligned with the top of rear sight, placing the frost sight dot squarely in the middle of the white “U” rear sight.

I’ve used different rear sights before, especially when switching to a flatter-shooting .357Sig barrel in my G23. I’m prepared to do the same with this G30, save one problem: the slide does not appear to go fully into battery after reassembly. Pictures show it better than I can describe (below). When I assemble it, I seat the guiderod fully down into the half-moon shaped cut-out in the bottom of the barrel. When I disassemble the pistol, the guiderod has slipped out to the position shown below. The guiderod also shows some signs of scratching and slight bending on the flat face. I worry that the guiderod is slipping out of the proper position during reassembly, keeping the slide slightly out of battery, tilting the barrel slightly up, and causing the high shot pattern.

Notes on the pictures: The rear of the slide does not seem to be fully forward into battery. The front of the slide also seems to be showing too much barrel and guiderod. I’ve looked at pictures of other G30s online, and I can’t tell if mine is identical or not. Meaning…I can’t tell if I’m just paranoid about this issue and imagining it’s out of battery, or if the guiderod is really having an effect on the slide. On my G23, the slide is more flush with the back of the frame. Does it look normal?

I’ve tried reassembling the gun as slowly and carefully as possible; rotating the guiderod to different orientations to see if one works; but something pulls the guiderod down each time. Whenever I disassemble my G23, the guiderod is still firmly seated in the half-moon cutout.

The gun still cycles and fires just fine, but I worry that the gun is battering the guiderod and not functioning as intended.

I’ve contacted Glock to see what they say, but I’d appreciate any input you may have.
 

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It's kind of hard to tell from the pics but it looks like its in battery from the pics. Can you push the slide forward manually to take up the slack or is it firm in its position? Sometimes those recoil springs look a little bit crooked and with most all Glocks the recoil spring is not seated in the half moon position after taking the gun down. It moves out of that position during firing. What did Glock have to say ?
 

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Looks to me like the Gun is slightly out of battery and that would explain why the barrel is slightly angled up. If I was smarter I'd tell you exactly why that is but I can't say for sure. I wouldn't shoot it anymore till the problem is corrected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jordanjf86: The slide won't budge past the point shown. Thanks for the comment on the half-moon position; I haven't shot/disassembled the G23 in a while, but I thought I remembered it staying in the half-moon position. If the recoil spring assembly moving a little down is normal, that's excellent to hear.

OHshooter: I'm waiting til I hear back from Glock before I fire it again. If they send me useful info I'll update this post.

Mechanikos: Tried it, lost a good shooting hand, but the good Lord granted me with a spare :)

Thanks for your inputs!
 

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AwShoot,
Keep us updated on this, I bought a new G30 Gen3 last week, I have not had a chance to shoot it yet. I cleaned it and it looks like I'm having the same problem as you. I'm at work right now but seems to me the manf date was Apr or May of 2013. Thanks,
 

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Had a problem with a Gen4 Glock 26, which has the same type of recoil spring. It wouldn't close the slide completely, but while talking to Glock about the recoil spring recall of the G17 I mentioned what the 26 was doing and they included a spring for it that corrected the problem. I don't have a problem with either one of my G30's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: I haven't received any word from Glock, although when I submitted my message they had an auto-reply stating they were backlogged and it may take a while. If I hear back, I'll post it.

I researched the potential 'slide out of battery' online and found that every picture of a G30 was identical to mine. It just seems to hang rearward off the frame a little more than the 9mm/.40 pistols. The barrel and guiderod stick out the front a little more than 9mm/.40 frames as well. Upon looking closer at the guiderod and comparing it to online photos, the marks that I thought were the result of firing the pistol appear to be factory tool marks (or every G30 I saw has the same dents from firing). There are no abnormal marks underneath the barrel or inside the frame where the guiderod rests, suggesting the guiderod is locking up and functioning exactly as intended.

That leaves the problem of shooting very high: The stock G30 rear sight is the 6.9mm, the same as on a stock G21. With any degree of height difference between the front and rear sight, a shorter sight radius will produce a barrel tilt upwards. My guess is that when Glock tested the G21, the 6.9mm rear sight was dead on. Taking that same sight and placing it on the G30 will shift the bullet path upwards (assuming the bore is aligned to the slide at exactly the same angle as a G21...but I'm not busting out a protractor). I ordered a 6.5mm and 6.1mm rear sight and tested them out: the 6.1mm is perfectly level with 230gr reloads and Hornady Critical Duty 220gr +P. It is still shooting slightly high (+1" at 7yds; +3" at 20yds) with PMC bronze 230gr FMJs. I shoot mostly reloads and carry Critical Duty, so if it's sighted in for those I'm happy. I'm confused as to why the PMC shot high; my reloads have a very similar muzzle velocity to the PMC, so they're sitting in the barrel just as long. The +P loads are noticeably stouter, sit in the barrel a shorter length of time, and should shoot lower than my reloads. I don't have a good answer for why the +P and reloads have the same POI, but I won't complain since it works for me.

So...the cheap solution is a lowered rear sight. They're $5ish from online shops. Thanks to everyone for your help!
 

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The early 30sf had lots of problems with that issue. It is definitely not returning fully to battery in your pictures. Research it some more I think Glock changed the trigger bar to address this problem and a new recoil spring might help but that's not normal or ok imo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OHshooter: I looked into the trigger bar issues. That was a very informative endeavor; it seems Glock (this is where sensitive readers turn their heads and begin evening prayer to Gaston :D) had a lot of trouble with earlier trigger bars. Here are a couple links with the background:

New GLOCK 30 SF Jamming Constantly. Help. - Glock Talk
Glock 30 SF jamming problem - The Firing Line Forums

Notice the post date on those issues. Glock figured out the issue and newer models should have no problem. Mine was manufactured well after that issue was fixed, and the trigger bar part # is the newer model. However, if anyone is reading this post and has a similar issue, take note of this. At least glock CS is aware and will send parts to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Glock's reply:

It is normal for the back end of the RSA to drop out of the half circle notch. As long as you reseat the RSA before reassembly you will not encounter any issues.

Best regards,
[Glock customer service rep]
 

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My 30 sf frequently did not fully return to battery after firing until I released the trigger. I would like another 30 but I personally would avoid the sf since some of them had those issues. Mine was a late model also but I can't remember which trigger bar it had. Maybe it was the bad trigger bar. Otherwise a great gun though.
 
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