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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
GEN-4 Glocks, proper cleaning of the slide channels and internal parts ...

What is the recommended tool and chemical to use for proper cleaning of the striker and other channels of a completely stripped slide, as well as its internal components; both metal and plastic?

This is not as easy as it looks (for us), given the following:
• Low light and visibility within the channel(s)
• Any device that could fit, from the rear, would only push existing debris further in (Striker Channel).
o Items/devices such as pipe cleaners and Q-tips may leave unseen fibers. Said fibers could attract other debris and moisture; if fibers are not noticed and removed.
• Wildly/blindly spraying an aerosol cleaner in to these channels is no guarantee that every nook/cranny has been cleaned.

Our first thought was to saturate the channels with an aerosol type cleaner, but then, what tool can we use to ensure we have cleaned all nooks and cranny’s before the chemical dries; let’s not forget a tool that would not leave behind unwanted fibers?

Slide_Channels.png Parts_List_PT-1.png BBB_Annotated.png
 

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I am a big fan of cotton underwear and Q-tips and light machine oils and ever so often a dental piks but rare
 
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and pocket lint is not a real issue

[video=youtube;KetjWgYXTas]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KetjWgYXTas[/video]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am a big fan of cotton underwear and Q-tips and light machine oils and ever so often a dental piks but rare

and pocket lint is not a real issue
We have been reading about metal/brass shavings, coupled with lint and any other foreign material that would attract and hold moisture. In effect these ingredients would soon get hard within a corner or crevice of the slides' channels. Should this occur, just spraying would not completely dislodge said cocktail.

As far as using a pik is concerned, not sure there is a pik that can reach (from the Slides rear) all the way to the channel side of the breach face; if our term was correct. Additionally, if there was a pik that would get that far, using a metal pik may scratch whatever finish/treatment is applied (remember, Glock advises against using lubricants in the Striker channel). Said lubricants, if allowed, may afford the scratched area some protection against future rust/corrosion, on the flip side of that coin, a plastic pik may not be sturdy enough.

I trust you won't suggest that we are over thinking this. Your thoughts ...
 

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We have been reading about metal/brass shavings, coupled with lint and any other foreign material that would attract and hold moisture
so are you storing I outside? if not I wouldn't sweat it

and yes I think you are over thinking it. I take a 30-30 deer hunting in the rain and snow and when I get back to camp I clean it and get the moisture out and give it a coat of oil and good to go for some 30 years now and still looks good

I was raised in jersey and my dad owned a gas station. he used to get motors and they would sit out side for months in the snow and ice. he would clean them up with a air hose and a wire brush. install them and they would run for years without a problem.

point being you can overthink something, a little oil and some love and the simplest of things will last for years with the simplest of care
 
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A toothbrush dipped in Hoppe's, followed up with a hosing of Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber (or something like it), pretty much takes care of the slide rails and any other parts. Hoppe's Gun Oil where required, and Remington Grease placed on the rails and I'm done.
 

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I also use a toothbrush for cleaning firearms and have for 40+ years. Works good...
 
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As far as using a pik is concerned, not sure there is a pik that can reach (from the Slides rear) all the way to the channel side of the breach face; if our term was correct. Additionally, if there was a pik that would get that far, using a metal pik may scratch whatever finish/treatment is applied

I have been using these for years and I am not saying lean on them when cleaning but these piks will get into places that other items can't PLUS they are good for retrieving parts that get away image_13802.jpg

6 Piece Pick Set
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
It appears we are not being fully understood. Within this post our concern are the 'Channel(s)'; as in the following:

Striker 'Channel'
Extractor Depressor Plunger 'Channel'

Sorry we don't have a clearer images:
Parts_List_PT-1.png

Slide_Channels.png
 

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if you really want them clean Glocks are dishwasher safe (top rack only)
 
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It appears we are not being fully understood. Within this post our concern are the 'Channel(s)'; as in the following:

Striker 'Channel'
Extractor Depressor Plunger 'Channel'

Sorry we don't have a clearer images:
View attachment 2797

View attachment 2799

I still stand with the Hoppe's and Gun Scrubber, although in this case, using the tube on the Gun Scrubber will most likely blast out any crud inside those channels without the Hoppe's. If you insist on hand scrubbing, the smallest nylon bristle bore brush you can find should get the job done. I've used Brake Drum Cleaner and Carburetor Cleaner on steel gun parts in place of Gun Scrubber. I recommend using compressed air afterwards to blow out any leftover chunks and dry the metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I still stand with the Hoppe's and Gun Scrubber, although in this case, using the tube on the Gun Scrubber will most likely blast out any crud inside those channels without the Hoppe's. If you insist on hand scrubbing, the smallest nylon bristle bore brush you can find should get the job done. I've used Brake Drum Cleaner and Carburetor Cleaner on steel gun parts in place of Gun Scrubber. I recommend using compressed air afterwards to blow out any leftover chunks and dry the metal.
We were initially thinking what you posted above, but if you look at this closer (Striker Channel), the rear has a wide opening, the breach face has a small opening. If for whatever reason, the 'channel' starts to retain brass and/or other shavings, the normal force of an aerosol can along with its provided chemical may not be enough to free the debris deeply seated into any particular corner or crevice (channel side of the breach face). We have already experienced dust, lint and/or some form of tiny grit in the Striker channel; not entirely sure if we got it all out.

Suffice it to say, post cleaning our Gen4 devices, while holding the Slide (muzzle down), and simultaneously pressing and holding down on the 'Firing Pin Safety', we shake the slide up and down; the firing pin does move freely; the same free movement is experienced when placing slide (muzzle down) on a table,pulling rearward on the lug of the firing pin to its latched position, then pressing in on the 'Firing Pin Safety'. The firing pin falls down unimpeded.

However, should any device start to retain and build up undetected debris on the Striker Channel side of the breach face, the Stikers' function may be somewhat impeded. Remember, Murphys' Law is always cocked and locked. :)
 

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Hold the slide muzzle up.....stick the tube in the rear of the striker channel and let it fly. It will back flush out the rear.
 

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help me out what is the striker channel?

figured it out... no such thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hold the slide muzzle up.....stick the tube in the rear of the striker channel and let it fly. It will back flush out the rear.
Heh, obviously that will work during routine cleaning It is the retention of crud (possibly dried), in the corners during extended intervals that we are focused on. As we understand it, 'no' lubrication is to be used within the 'Striker Channel'. That said, during extended intervals of not cleaning, lint and other particles accumulate. Factor in moisture, sooner or later the crud will cake-up and perhaps harden to a point where you may need a pik/bristles; as the aerosol may not have enough PSI or the contents may not work as well, or as fast, on the crud in its hardened state. Mind you, we are not talking about total neglect. We have already found the need to use a pik to free-up some brass that found its way into the 'Striker Channel'.

We are not second guessing Glocks' reason for not using lubricants in these 'Channels', but we are wondering why they don't publicize a way to get these areas maintained without calling in an Armorer and without voiding the warranty.

In any case, it looks like great minds think alike: Gun Scrubber, Brake cleaner, and if available, compressed air for the unfinished metal and 'Slide Channels'. Wipe down or replace the plastic items and call it a day.We will be on the hunt for a brush that can fit in those 'Channels' to break free any stubborn debris.

We will continue to monitor this thread and add any positive findings.
 

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I would imagine someone, somewhere, makes a .17 caliber cleaning brush. That may work. I read a review of these products a couple of days ago on another site. The author thought very highly of their products. Maybe it will interest you. The KG-1, KG-2, KG-3, and KG-12 products might be what you need. I haven't used them, but may in the future.

http://www.kgcoatings.com/
 

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That’s why once a year I wash the action in Dawn soap and warm water. Really slosh it around. Then rise in warm water, blow out with compressed air and use hair dryer on warm (NOT hot) setting to dry. I’ve sometimes flushed out some really strange stuff from sand grit to saw dust and old lint scales.
Regardless of what that lint test showed ...lint in a high humidity and variable temperature environment will freeze an action. (Think lint inside action for 6-9 months, high RH and damp lint, temps from room temperature to -10 degrees. Hmmm, damp lint at zero degrees in the snow...)
Just saying be safe wash out your action yearly...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would imagine someone, somewhere, makes a .17 caliber cleaning brush. That may work. I read a review of these products a couple of days ago on another site. The author thought very highly of their products. Maybe it will interest you. The KG-1, KG-2, KG-3, and KG-12 products might be what you need. I haven't used them, but may in the future.

Metal Protective Coating | Firearm Lubricants | Industrial Coatings
Thanks for that jdw. However, we are more focused on the hardware (tools) to use, with regard to those aforementioned 'Channels'. We are very close to that goal and will keep this thread alive until we are satisfied. Keywords for what we want:

"tube brush" with the bristles being as sturdy as a med/hard toothbrush. Would prefer the brush have a tapered/rounded tip with bristle material not being limited to: nonabsorbent and chemical resistance; just for dislodging foreign material in crevices. Once we are settled on --and have our product of choice, we will post HD images and the application as it relates to the 'Channels'.

We just can not afford those ultrasonic cleaners and chemicals. nor are they practical for us to use on the road.
 
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