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I've had a pretty bad experience reloading 40 S&W. Winchester 231 5.8 grains 155 fmj in a stock barrel will come apart at the base. The same load with a Lone Wolf barrel was catistrophic. Changed the load to 5.3 grains an second round came apart. All brass is range brass. and all rounds chamber checked. 100_0209.jpg

If you know the correct formula that would be good.
 

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With those results the best advise I can give is....buy and shoot Wite box fro Wally World.
 
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WOW! Holy... That sucks!

What is your overall cartridge length? Should be min of 1.125". Also what bullets are you using? (don't use lead in stock barrel btw)

I have a 9mm LWD barrel for my G22 and I find it shows pressure signs when there are none in other guns.

I've never used that powder but always had good luck with Power Pistol in .40, as well as 9mm, 10mm and .45ACP.
 

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Hey All...I currently own a Gen 3 GLock 23 (40 S&W) this Glock, has only had about 75 rounds fired though it. This also has the NIB finish, . So, since this is a new gun, Does it still have the same problems of the early ones??. I happen to be on a fixed income, and don't have any plans for a new or different barrel.
My plans for now is to assemble all of the other items needed to complete my reload bench...e.g. electronic scale, dies, powder measure..etc.
I recently was given a Lee Classic Turret Press. My plan was to handload this cartridge .40 S&W. Also, my AR15 5.56-(223). I also own a Rossi .38 spc. Now, my question is this...After reading about case failures with the .40, this gives me pause for concern...(possibly some fear and dismay)...So-o-o, Just what cases should I use??...And, Any and all suggestions are welcomed

BTW, The ammo I shot thought this is from Wal-Mart...Federal Champion?...(I think this was the ammo...I don't have it near me as I write this, and having a Brain F...T now).

Thanks for all of your experienced replies...
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Possible overcrimping? Looks like the pressure was just too much. I do know that from reading the .40 S&W rounds in a glock are subject to bellying out. But that looks like over crimped or possible over charge with powder. Crazyness. Hope everyone is ok.
 

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Hope everything is ok and everyone is good.
 

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Agabus, welcome to the forum. If you take proper care and pay attention you wont have any issues reloading .40 or any other caliber for that matter. I've never had a squib or KB (knock on wood). I reload on a turret press, sure progressive is going to be much faster but this way I can inspect every case as I pick it up, visually verify there's powder in every case, and maintain a good quality control and stay safe.

I use mixed brass, small pistol primers of course (Winchester is good, Federal on the other hand is quite soft so I'd stay away from at first). currently I'm using 180gr plated bullets and 6.5gr of Power Pistol. But will try 6.2 for a more milder load.
 

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Hey thanks Gray Wolf, for your input..:)...I do appreciate what you've said. I am SO glad that I can reload my Glock. Since in all of the owners manuals, they strongly say one can't reload. Sure, I know that is in case of a problem, and the gun goes BOOM, they won't stand behind their warranty. However, Since I am a cautious person, and somewhat meticulous, I don't expect any problems. (and as you said, Knock On Wood)!
I guess My plans right now are to purchase the Lyman Manual, before I start to buy the rest of my equipment.
Oh yeah, where did you get your formula for your reloads?...Thanks again..:cool:
 

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I've had a pretty bad experience reloading 40 S&W. Winchester 231 5.8 grains 155 fmj in a stock barrel will come apart at the base. The same load with a Lone Wolf barrel was catistrophic. Changed the load to 5.3 grains an second round came apart. All brass is range brass. and all rounds chamber checked. View attachment 6

If you know the correct formula that would be good.
Where did you get that load recipe...?
 

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Hey thanks Gray Wolf, for your input.....I do appreciate what you've said. I am SO glad that I can reload my Glock. Since in all of the owners manuals, they strongly say one can't reload. Sure, I know that is in case of a problem, and the gun goes BOOM, they won't stand behind their warranty. However, Since I am a cautious person, and somewhat meticulous, I don't expect any problems. (and as you said, Knock On Wood)!
I guess My plans right now are to purchase the Lyman Manual, before I start to buy the rest of my equipment.
Oh yeah, where did you get your formula for your reloads?...Thanks again..
All gun manufacturers advise not to shoot reloads in their guns. Because Glock doesn't have standard rifling, lead bullets should not be used. I've always had good luck with plated, cheap and clean! When I'm developing a load I usually check a couple sources and remember to start on the low side and work up to max if you ever need to. Tip: flat primers = too much pressure.

Check the online manuals as well;
http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
Alliant Powder - Reloader's Guide
 

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Not a lot of room for error...everytime I think I'm gonna start, I hear one of these stories...
 

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Bah & Double BAH!!....Looks like I might have to buy a conversion barrel in .357 sig. From all that I've been reading, I might just have to buy a conversion barrel for my Gen3 G23. (sigh)...I really did not want to have to do this. Just more expense...just when ya think ya might be a little ahead of the ......(put in your own example)...:p
 

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I know this is an old post but there is only reason for that kind of blowout and it is that the Glock design has an unsupported chamber. In order to shorten the stroke to bring the next live round into position the chamber of most Glocks and even other brands of newer auto loading pistols has the bottom of the chamber (exactly as that picture shows) relieved (meaning removed, notched, etc.,. away) so that the slide does not have to cycle so far to load the next round. It produced a bulge from the hot gasses as there is no steel chamber to suck the heat out of the brass. The sudden impingement of air on the hot area as the gun cycles hardens the brass. When you reload the sizing die compacts the brass down expect right there where it has been hardened. That area produces micro cracks which are not supported in the next go around and bammmm, thar she blows!
 

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The most I load for .40 is 4.5 grains of 231 or 4.5 of Titegroup. Never had any bulged cases.
 

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:popcorn: Thanks for reviving this thread. :cool:
 

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I've reloaded couple 1000 .40 and have never had this problem. I've seen this before and it looks to me like Bullet seated to deep/over Crimping/ over charge or something to cause a lot of case pressure. How hard do you have to pull the handle to seat the bullets? you shouldn't have to force it. Also stay away from MAX loads if possible. Going to the range for some family shooting isn't worth the catastrophe.
 

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Not an expert but have reloaded thousands of 9mm and .45ACP for my Glocks, not one problem. Stay away from lead with the factory Glock barrel but any jacketed should be fine. I use LW barrels for lead and they work well and clean up fine.
A flat primer and you're pretty much at max pressure or a bit more, if your expended primer is "cratered" as in the primer molding itself around the firing pin you're definitely a bit too hot.
My best guess would be the crimp. Most semi autos barely need any crimp.
 
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