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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was bored and tore some stuff up :)



All the parts seemed to go back together OK...can't wait to see if it still works :cool:

(didn't strip the slide as I've done that many times before)
 

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Brave man...I never tackled it that far...I'm sure you'll get it right at the range...Happy shooting...!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Since I signed up for the Glock Armorer's Course in September, I figure I'd better at least attempt it once :)

It was much easier than I thought and I really appreciate the genius of the design!

I followed this video:

[video=youtube;oV0wDDFV0NY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV0wDDFV0NY[/video]
 

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Wow...Thanks, RMD, for posting that..Looks lengthy, and can't watch tonite, but I'll hang on to that...Let us know how you did...(at the range) lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'd suggest buying a Glock Armorer's Tool (less than $10). It's really all you need to detail strip a Glock.

Try the slide first - very easy and hard to screw up :)
 

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I have the Glock Armorers tool, but not the nerve to use it yet.
 

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I can attest to the Glock toole being the only thing you need to tear them down to every last piece! I did have a stubborn pin on my 39 that just wouldnt budge. I had to break out a punch and a hammer for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I can attest to the Glock toole being the only thing you need to tear them down to every last piece! I did have a stubborn pin on my 39 that just wouldnt budge. I had to break out a punch and a hammer for that.
I stripped my G32 - it's seen a few years and a few rounds. I'll be those pins are a lot tighter on my newer pieces though.
 

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Too scared to try that yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Took the G32 to the range today, along with my new gen4 G17 (which I had detail stripped a few days later), and they both ran like the glockin' bosses they are :)

whew!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks.

I was seriously (well...curiously) wondering if the frame was going to fly off with the first shot :)
 

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Make sure the firearm is unloaded. Point the firearm in a safe direction. Cycle the slide and dry fire the gun a couple of times. If the gun dry fires OK (no binding, difficulty racking slide) cycle the slide to load the trigger. Put a standard pencil in the barrel. Make sure the eraser goes in first. Aim the gun with pencil in the barrel in a safe direction, squeeze the trigger. The pencil should leave the barrel. If the gun didn't fly apart, and the pencil left the barrel - you shouldn't have any problems when you go to the range. Look at the eraser, you will probably see a mark on it that resembles the imprint left on a primer. If you have the Glock tool (or a punch of similar diameter), the mechanical aptitude of changing your engine oil/filter, coupled with an internet connection - Glocks are the easiest pistols to disassemble/reassemble.
 

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I have always been afraid to take the frame all the way down to bare state, but with this video I think I might be able to do it. Thank you so much! Dave

On a side note, If I do this and can not get it back together I WILL be making a trip to your house with all the parts!!!!! loololololololol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Make sure the firearm is unloaded. Point the firearm in a safe direction. Cycle the slide and dry fire the gun a couple of times. If the gun dry fires OK (no binding, difficulty racking slide) cycle the slide to load the trigger. Put a standard pencil in the barrel. Make sure the eraser goes in first. Aim the gun with pencil in the barrel in a safe direction, squeeze the trigger. The pencil should leave the barrel. If the gun didn't fly apart, and the pencil left the barrel - you shouldn't have any problems when you go to the range. Look at the eraser, you will probably see a mark on it that resembles the imprint left on a primer. If you have the Glock tool (or a punch of similar diameter), the mechanical aptitude of changing your engine oil/filter, coupled with an internet connection - Glocks are the easiest pistols to disassemble/reassemble.
I've never thought about shooting a pencil out of my Glocks, but you're right about how easy it was!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have always been afraid to take the frame all the way down to bare state, but with this video I think I might be able to do it. Thank you so much! Dave

On a side note, If I do this and can not get it back together I WILL be making a trip to your house with all the parts!!!!! loololololololol
:)

Just remember to remove the 3 pins in the correct order (and from left to right) and to put them back in the right order (not the same order they were removed - and from right to left).

If you've never detailed stripped the slide, you might just do that and call it a day. That's what I did (months ago) and it built my confidence to a point where I was ready to tackle the frame. Plus, the slide has parts & channels that should be "dry" cleaned every so often (I use 90% rubbing alcohol).
 

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Make sure the firearm is unloaded. Point the firearm in a safe direction. Cycle the slide and dry fire the gun a couple of times. If the gun dry fires OK (no binding, difficulty racking slide) cycle the slide to load the trigger. Put a standard pencil in the barrel. Make sure the eraser goes in first. Aim the gun with pencil in the barrel in a safe direction, squeeze the trigger. The pencil should leave the barrel. If the gun didn't fly apart, and the pencil left the barrel - you shouldn't have any problems when you go to the range. Look at the eraser, you will probably see a mark on it that resembles the imprint left on a primer. If you have the Glock tool (or a punch of similar diameter), the mechanical aptitude of changing your engine oil/filter, coupled with an internet connection - Glocks are the easiest pistols to disassemble/reassemble.
You guys inspire me...for sure...but I think I'll take the armorers course first...As for the pencils...hmmm, who'd a thunk it?...lol That's so much cheaper than buying ammo...Just keep those old stubbie pencils that we use to throw away..and you can cross calibers and it doesn't matter. I wonder if it needs to be a #2...? How do they work in a magazine?...just kidding...ya'll are great...I hope to be able to work on my own one day, but to this point I've never really had much of a problem.... :D
 
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